T., who was early to the Mark Bittman boat, makes this. And I like it. I will write out the recipe as it is found on the New York Times website, but the citrus complement of course can be changed, and you can section the citrus instead of slicing it.
2 blood oranges or tangerines
1 pink grapefruit
1 navel orange
salt
1/2 small red onion or 1 shallot, chopped
3 T extra virgin olive oil
1 T sherry vinegar
1/2 t honey
lime or lemon juice to taste
1/4 t freshly chopped tarragon or a pinch dried
Peel citrus, removing as much pith as possible, and slice into wheels. Remove any seeds. Layer onto serving dish. Sprinkle with salt and garnish with chopped shallot.
Whisk together olive oil, vinegar, honey, citrus juice, and tarragon. Taste and adjust seasoning. Drizzle over salad.
Wednesday, April 8, 2015
Almond and Lemon Glazed Torte
I made this for Passover this year (on assignment) and I liked how my version turned out. I served it with sugared strawberries, but found them a little overpowering. I'm a cake lover so I'd enjoy this by itself.
A mish mash of Joan Nathan's recipe for Alabama Lemon Pecan Torte, online advice, and Diane Rossen Worthington's Almond-Lemon Torte.
For the cake:
Olive oil (for brushing the pan) plus 6 T
4 T matzo meal, divided
2 c almond flour/almond meal/ground almonds
1 c sugar, divided
6 large eggs, separated
2 T fresh lemon juice
1 T orange juice
2 t finely grated lemon peel
1/2 t salt (I used more I don't know how much more.)
1/2 c sliced almonds
Preheat oven to 350 F. Brush 10 inch diameter springform pan with oil; line with parchment paper round; oil parchment. Coat with 2 T matzo meal, tap out excess.
Combine 2 T matzo meal, almond flour, 1/3 c sugar; whisk to blend. Add 1/3 c sugar to yolks and beat until thick and fluffy. Beat in 6 T olive oil, then lemon juice, orange juice, and zest. Mix in dries.
Add 1/2 t salt to whites; using clean beaters, beat until soft peaks form. Gradually add 1/3 c sugar and beat until stiff but not dry. Fold whites into yolk mixture in 3 additions. Transfer batter to prepared pan. Sprinkle almonds over.
Here it says to bake until golden brown and tester inserted in center comes out clean, "about 40 minutes"; to get to this point for me was 55 minutes, and I do think it came out right. Put on cooling rack in pan. Now, prepare the glaze.
For the glaze:
1 large egg yolk
1/2 c lemon juice
1/2 c sugar
1 t unsalted butter or margarine
1 T lemon rind
Combine ingredients, except zest, in sauce pan. Bring to simmering over medium heat, whisking constatntly. Remove from the heat and stir in the zest. When cake has cooled about 15 minutes, poke holes in the top of the cake with a long skewer. With the cake still in the springform pan, spoon the glaze over. Let the cake stand a few minutes until the glaze seeps into the cake. Then remove the cake from the pan by running a thin knife around the rim to release the cake.
A mish mash of Joan Nathan's recipe for Alabama Lemon Pecan Torte, online advice, and Diane Rossen Worthington's Almond-Lemon Torte.
For the cake:
Olive oil (for brushing the pan) plus 6 T
4 T matzo meal, divided
2 c almond flour/almond meal/ground almonds
1 c sugar, divided
6 large eggs, separated
2 T fresh lemon juice
1 T orange juice
2 t finely grated lemon peel
1/2 t salt (I used more I don't know how much more.)
1/2 c sliced almonds
Preheat oven to 350 F. Brush 10 inch diameter springform pan with oil; line with parchment paper round; oil parchment. Coat with 2 T matzo meal, tap out excess.
Combine 2 T matzo meal, almond flour, 1/3 c sugar; whisk to blend. Add 1/3 c sugar to yolks and beat until thick and fluffy. Beat in 6 T olive oil, then lemon juice, orange juice, and zest. Mix in dries.
Add 1/2 t salt to whites; using clean beaters, beat until soft peaks form. Gradually add 1/3 c sugar and beat until stiff but not dry. Fold whites into yolk mixture in 3 additions. Transfer batter to prepared pan. Sprinkle almonds over.
Here it says to bake until golden brown and tester inserted in center comes out clean, "about 40 minutes"; to get to this point for me was 55 minutes, and I do think it came out right. Put on cooling rack in pan. Now, prepare the glaze.
For the glaze:
1 large egg yolk
1/2 c lemon juice
1/2 c sugar
1 t unsalted butter or margarine
1 T lemon rind
Combine ingredients, except zest, in sauce pan. Bring to simmering over medium heat, whisking constatntly. Remove from the heat and stir in the zest. When cake has cooled about 15 minutes, poke holes in the top of the cake with a long skewer. With the cake still in the springform pan, spoon the glaze over. Let the cake stand a few minutes until the glaze seeps into the cake. Then remove the cake from the pan by running a thin knife around the rim to release the cake.
Monday, March 30, 2015
Lihamurekepiiras (Finnish meat loaf in sour-cream pastry)
Very delicious. From the Time-Life recipe booklet accompanying their Cooking of Scandinavia book, by Dale Brown.
Pastry
2 1/4 c flour
1 t salt
12 T chilled butter, cut into 1/4 inch bits
1 egg
1/2 c sour cream
1 T soft butter
Sift the flour and salt together into a large chilled bowl. Drop the 1/4 inch bits of butter into the bowl. Working quickly, use your fingertips to rub the flour and butter together until they have the appearance of flakes of coarse meal. In a separate bowl, mix together the egg and sour cream and stir into this the flour-butter mixture, working with your fingers until you can gather the dough into a soft, pliable ball. Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate 1 hour. Cut the chilled dough in half and roll out each half to rectangles of 6 by 14 inches each, setting aside any scraps.
Butter the bottom of a jelly roll pan with the soft butter. Lift 1 sheet of the pastry over the rolling pin and unroll it into the pan, or drape the pastry over the rolling pin, lift it up, and unfold it into the pan.
Meat filling
4 T butter
3/4 c finely chopped mushrooms (about 1/4 lb)
3 lbs finely ground meat (beef, pork, ham, lamb or a combo) or 4 c cooked ground or finely chopped meat
1/3 c finely chopped onions
1/4 c finely chopped parsley
1 c freshly grated cheddar or "Switzerland" cheese (I quote the book. Gruyere?)
1/2 c milk
1 egg combined with 2 T milk
Melt the 4 T of butter in a 10 to 12 in skillet. When the foam subsides, add the chopped mushrooms and cook them over moderate heat, stirring frequently, for 6-8 minutes, or until they are lightly colored. If you are using ground raw meat, add it to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, for another 8-10 minutes, or until the meat loses its red color and any accumulated liquid in the pan cooks completely away. Scrape the meat mixture from the skillet (or the mushrooms and already cooked meat) into a large mixing bowl and stir in the chopped onions, parsley, cheese, and milk. Now gather this meat mixture into a ball and place it in the center of the dough in the pan. With your hands, pat the meat into a narrow loaf extending across the center of the dough from one end to the other. Life the second sheet of pastry over the pin and gently drape it on top of the meat loaf; press the edges of the 2 sheets together. Dip a pastry brush into the combined egg and milk mixture and moisten the edges of the dough. Press down on the edges all around the loaf with the back of a fork (the tines will seal the edges securely). Prick the top of the loaf in several places to allow steam to escape.
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Gather together into a ball all of the excess scraps of dough an droll it out to a thin rectangle. With a pastry wheel or small, sharp knife, cut this dough into long, narrow strips. Brush the loaf with more of the egg and milk mixture and crisscross the pastry strips over the top of the loaf in an attractive pattern. Now brush the strips with the milk and egg mixture and set the jelly-roll pan in the center of the oven. Bake for 45 minutes, or until the loaf has turned a golden brown. Serve thick slices of the hot meat loaf, accompanied by a bowl of cold sour cream and a side dish of lingonberries.
Pastry
2 1/4 c flour
1 t salt
12 T chilled butter, cut into 1/4 inch bits
1 egg
1/2 c sour cream
1 T soft butter
Sift the flour and salt together into a large chilled bowl. Drop the 1/4 inch bits of butter into the bowl. Working quickly, use your fingertips to rub the flour and butter together until they have the appearance of flakes of coarse meal. In a separate bowl, mix together the egg and sour cream and stir into this the flour-butter mixture, working with your fingers until you can gather the dough into a soft, pliable ball. Wrap in wax paper and refrigerate 1 hour. Cut the chilled dough in half and roll out each half to rectangles of 6 by 14 inches each, setting aside any scraps.
Butter the bottom of a jelly roll pan with the soft butter. Lift 1 sheet of the pastry over the rolling pin and unroll it into the pan, or drape the pastry over the rolling pin, lift it up, and unfold it into the pan.
Meat filling
4 T butter
3/4 c finely chopped mushrooms (about 1/4 lb)
3 lbs finely ground meat (beef, pork, ham, lamb or a combo) or 4 c cooked ground or finely chopped meat
1/3 c finely chopped onions
1/4 c finely chopped parsley
1 c freshly grated cheddar or "Switzerland" cheese (I quote the book. Gruyere?)
1/2 c milk
1 egg combined with 2 T milk
Melt the 4 T of butter in a 10 to 12 in skillet. When the foam subsides, add the chopped mushrooms and cook them over moderate heat, stirring frequently, for 6-8 minutes, or until they are lightly colored. If you are using ground raw meat, add it to the skillet and cook, stirring occasionally, for another 8-10 minutes, or until the meat loses its red color and any accumulated liquid in the pan cooks completely away. Scrape the meat mixture from the skillet (or the mushrooms and already cooked meat) into a large mixing bowl and stir in the chopped onions, parsley, cheese, and milk. Now gather this meat mixture into a ball and place it in the center of the dough in the pan. With your hands, pat the meat into a narrow loaf extending across the center of the dough from one end to the other. Life the second sheet of pastry over the pin and gently drape it on top of the meat loaf; press the edges of the 2 sheets together. Dip a pastry brush into the combined egg and milk mixture and moisten the edges of the dough. Press down on the edges all around the loaf with the back of a fork (the tines will seal the edges securely). Prick the top of the loaf in several places to allow steam to escape.
Preheat the oven to 375 F. Gather together into a ball all of the excess scraps of dough an droll it out to a thin rectangle. With a pastry wheel or small, sharp knife, cut this dough into long, narrow strips. Brush the loaf with more of the egg and milk mixture and crisscross the pastry strips over the top of the loaf in an attractive pattern. Now brush the strips with the milk and egg mixture and set the jelly-roll pan in the center of the oven. Bake for 45 minutes, or until the loaf has turned a golden brown. Serve thick slices of the hot meat loaf, accompanied by a bowl of cold sour cream and a side dish of lingonberries.
Monday, March 23, 2015
Roast Tri-tip with Horseradish Cream
Bilbo made this for sister R's birthday dinner and I was lucky enough to be in California at the time to celebrate with them and enjoy. It hits a lot of my peculiar 'favorite' buttons, and I found it moreish, a word we associate more with salty snack foods and crunchy cookies than with beautifully plateable entrees, but there you have it. I just thought it was wonderful. I have trouble cooking meat, so I don't know if I could cook it as well as Bilbo did, but I'm recording the recipe so I have the option to try.
The whole menu was well planned and executed. Served by the side was roasted asparagus spears tossed with oil, salt, pepper, and parmesan-- they were still bright green. R made a nice dense oatmeal bread and there was also a nice savory pilaf. Dessert was an R classic, Momofuku "crack" pie.
This recipe is from the magazine Bon Appetit, December 2012, and was developed by Alison Attenborough with roast beef tenderloin, not tri-tip. Bilbo has made it with both and says he prefers the tri-tip. It says it serves 8-10 but the 3 of us ate half the meat. Oops.
Horseradish Cream
1/2 c plus 2 T creme fraiche or sour cream (about 5 oz)
start with 1 1/2 T drained prepared horseradish, add more to taste
start with 1 1/2 T coarsely ground fresh peppercorns, mixed colors if possible, add more to taste
salt to taste
Whisk creme fraiche or sour cream until thickened and soft peaks start to form, 1-2 minutes. Fold in horseradish and peppercorns; adjust to taste with more horseradish, pepper, and, of course, salt. This can be made up to 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.
Beef
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 T chopped fresh thyme
2 1/2 t salt
1 T freshly ground pepper, mixture of colors including pink if possible
1 3 pound beef tri-tip at room temperature
(1 bunch fresh rosemary)-- Bilbo omitted
1 T olive oil
1 T butter
Combine garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper. Rub all over meat, pressing to adhere. Wrap in plastic and chill up to overnight. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour before continuing.
Preheat oven to 400. (Scatter rosemary over bottom of a large roasting pan).
Heat oil and butter in a 12 inch cast iron skillet over med high heat. Sear meat until brown on all sides; maybe 90 seconds or so on each side. Transfer to prepared roasting pan; Bilbo used a small rack.
Roast meat until an instant read thermometer inserted into thickest part of beef registers 125 for medium rare (Bilbo went to 135), about 30 minutes. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 15 minutes. Thinly slice and sever with horseradish cream.
To double or triple the recipe, sear pieces of meat one at a time, then arrange crosswise in roasting pan with 1-2 inches in between. The cook time will be the same.
Straight from the source: http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/roast-beef-tenderloin-with-horseradish-cream#recipe-ingredients
The whole menu was well planned and executed. Served by the side was roasted asparagus spears tossed with oil, salt, pepper, and parmesan-- they were still bright green. R made a nice dense oatmeal bread and there was also a nice savory pilaf. Dessert was an R classic, Momofuku "crack" pie.
This recipe is from the magazine Bon Appetit, December 2012, and was developed by Alison Attenborough with roast beef tenderloin, not tri-tip. Bilbo has made it with both and says he prefers the tri-tip. It says it serves 8-10 but the 3 of us ate half the meat. Oops.
Horseradish Cream
1/2 c plus 2 T creme fraiche or sour cream (about 5 oz)
start with 1 1/2 T drained prepared horseradish, add more to taste
start with 1 1/2 T coarsely ground fresh peppercorns, mixed colors if possible, add more to taste
salt to taste
Whisk creme fraiche or sour cream until thickened and soft peaks start to form, 1-2 minutes. Fold in horseradish and peppercorns; adjust to taste with more horseradish, pepper, and, of course, salt. This can be made up to 3 days ahead. Cover and chill.
Beef
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1 T chopped fresh thyme
2 1/2 t salt
1 T freshly ground pepper, mixture of colors including pink if possible
1 3 pound beef tri-tip at room temperature
(1 bunch fresh rosemary)-- Bilbo omitted
1 T olive oil
1 T butter
Combine garlic, thyme, salt, and pepper. Rub all over meat, pressing to adhere. Wrap in plastic and chill up to overnight. Let stand at room temperature for 1 hour before continuing.
Preheat oven to 400. (Scatter rosemary over bottom of a large roasting pan).
Heat oil and butter in a 12 inch cast iron skillet over med high heat. Sear meat until brown on all sides; maybe 90 seconds or so on each side. Transfer to prepared roasting pan; Bilbo used a small rack.
Roast meat until an instant read thermometer inserted into thickest part of beef registers 125 for medium rare (Bilbo went to 135), about 30 minutes. Transfer to a carving board and let rest for 15 minutes. Thinly slice and sever with horseradish cream.
To double or triple the recipe, sear pieces of meat one at a time, then arrange crosswise in roasting pan with 1-2 inches in between. The cook time will be the same.
Straight from the source: http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/roast-beef-tenderloin-with-horseradish-cream#recipe-ingredients
Monday, February 23, 2015
German Chocolate Cake
Sister T made German Chocolate Cake recently. No sort of variation or riff, just normal German Chocolate Cake, and it was exactly what I wanted out of, well, a German Chocolate Cake. This recipe comes from a family cookbook given to her and her husband for their wedding by their former singles ward bishop and his wife. T reports that Hawkins Family Favorites, compiled by Betty Hawkins and assisted by Amy and Christine Hawkins, is an unusually useful member of the family cookbook genre. She finds that it has reliable versions of dishes she wants to cook. Go, Hawkins family! I do think you have a good German Chocolate Cake.
Cake:
1 bar (4 oz) German sweet chocolate
1/2 c boiling water
1 c butter
2 c sugar
4 egg yolks
1 t vanilla
2 c sifted AP flour
1/2 t salt
1 t baking soda
1 c buttermilk
4 egg whites, stiffly beaten
Heat oven to 350 F. Line 3 deep 8 or 9 inch cake pans with waxed paper. (T only used 2 layers.) Melt chocolate in boiling water; cool. Cream butter and sugar until fluffy. Add egg yolks one at a time, beating well after each addition. Add melted chocolate and vanilla. Mix well. Sift together dries. Add alternately with buttermilk to chocolate mixture, beating well until smooth. Fold in egg whites. Pour into cake pans and bake for 30-40 minutes. Cool.
Filling/topping:
1 c evaporated milk
1 c sugar
3 egg yolks, slightly beaten
1/2 c butter
1 t vanilla
1 1/3 c coconut
1 c chopped pecans
Combine ingredients except coconut and pecans. Cook and stir over medium heat until thickened, about 12 minutes. Remove from heat. Add coconut and pecans. Beat until thick enough to spread. Makes 2 1/2 cups. Use to layer cake.
Friday, February 13, 2015
Salmao Assado com Açuicar Mascavel (a Brazilian approach to salmon)
I meant to retrieve from my sister's house her German chocolate cake recipe, but that goal got lost in a hubbub of my own making, and I didn't get that recipe (yet). But I did get this one, for the salmon dish she cooked tonight. I cooked up some asparagus and red bell pepper alongside, and it was all served with some red grapes, sourdough, and white rice. It was a nice dish, and I thought a very pleasant treatment of salmon! Any recipe that could make me eat more fish should be saved, I think.
From The Art of Brazilian Cooking, Sandra Cuza, 2012.
1 1/2 T butter, melted
juice of 1/2 lime
1/2 large orange, juice and zest
salt and pepper, to taste
4x5 oz salmon fillets
2 T brown sugar
1 t red pepper flakes
1 large garlic clove, minced
Preheat oven to 425 F. Line a shallow baking dish, large enough to hold salmon without overlapping, with foil and grease with a little of the melted butter. Combine the lime and orange juice with salt and pepper and pour into the pan. Add salmon, turning to coat with the marinade. Marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes, turning the fillets once.
Combine orange zest, brown sugar, red pepper flakes, and minced garlic. Rub the marinated salmon with this mix and drizzle with the remaining melted butter. Bake for 8-12 minutes or until done.
From The Art of Brazilian Cooking, Sandra Cuza, 2012.
1 1/2 T butter, melted
juice of 1/2 lime
1/2 large orange, juice and zest
salt and pepper, to taste
4x5 oz salmon fillets
2 T brown sugar
1 t red pepper flakes
1 large garlic clove, minced
Preheat oven to 425 F. Line a shallow baking dish, large enough to hold salmon without overlapping, with foil and grease with a little of the melted butter. Combine the lime and orange juice with salt and pepper and pour into the pan. Add salmon, turning to coat with the marinade. Marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes, turning the fillets once.
Combine orange zest, brown sugar, red pepper flakes, and minced garlic. Rub the marinated salmon with this mix and drizzle with the remaining melted butter. Bake for 8-12 minutes or until done.
Monday, January 19, 2015
Leek and Potato Soup-- a general scheme
Here is a dish which requires a scheme rather than a recipe. That's true of soups in general, and of stovetop cooking in an even broader general. But dishes like potato soup have a simple enough flavor profile that the way to make them 'right' is an open approach to adjustment.
I made a leek and potato soup for my Mom's birthday yesterday, and it turned out well! It was served with topping options: crisp bacon crumbles, extra sharp cheddar cheese, blue cheese crumbles, chopped chives, sour cream, saltine crackers. I also made rolls and prepared some buttered corn, with the idea that a person could even add their serving of corn to the soup. I did.
Here was my scheme:
Melt ~6 T butter in a very large pot
Saute ~6 leeks, halved lengthwise, carefully washed, and thinly sliced, in the butter, keeping the pot covered except for frequent stirrings. ~15 minutes.
add ~4 very large potatoes (a few pounds), peeled and diced small.
Again, cover and cook with frequent stirrings, over medium heat, ~20 minutes until potatoes are tender. Don't let them burn; I did at this point and had to transfer to a new pot.
Add ~8 c chicken stock. Bring to the boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until everything is quite tender.
Add creaminess: I added a pint of half-and-half, and, wanting more creaminess, planned to add sour cream; but decided I did not have enough to add to the soup and supply as a garnish. So I got crazy, and added a heavy dollop-- almost a cup? cottage cheese as well. Or you could just add cream.
Season heavily with salt, pepper.
Take off heat; blend with immersion blender till quite smooth, adjusting seasoning.
Gently reheat.
Serve with: bacon, cheeses, chives, sour cream, crackers, corn, etc.
I made a leek and potato soup for my Mom's birthday yesterday, and it turned out well! It was served with topping options: crisp bacon crumbles, extra sharp cheddar cheese, blue cheese crumbles, chopped chives, sour cream, saltine crackers. I also made rolls and prepared some buttered corn, with the idea that a person could even add their serving of corn to the soup. I did.
Here was my scheme:
Melt ~6 T butter in a very large pot
Saute ~6 leeks, halved lengthwise, carefully washed, and thinly sliced, in the butter, keeping the pot covered except for frequent stirrings. ~15 minutes.
add ~4 very large potatoes (a few pounds), peeled and diced small.
Again, cover and cook with frequent stirrings, over medium heat, ~20 minutes until potatoes are tender. Don't let them burn; I did at this point and had to transfer to a new pot.
Add ~8 c chicken stock. Bring to the boil. Reduce heat, cover, and simmer until everything is quite tender.
Add creaminess: I added a pint of half-and-half, and, wanting more creaminess, planned to add sour cream; but decided I did not have enough to add to the soup and supply as a garnish. So I got crazy, and added a heavy dollop-- almost a cup? cottage cheese as well. Or you could just add cream.
Season heavily with salt, pepper.
Take off heat; blend with immersion blender till quite smooth, adjusting seasoning.
Gently reheat.
Serve with: bacon, cheeses, chives, sour cream, crackers, corn, etc.
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